BEHIND THE COUNTER: A CONVERSATION WITH CHEF AHMET AYDOGMUS OF OTTOMAN TAVERNA

No surprise, we here at TheListAreYouOnIT are all big fans of Mediterranean cuisine.  At Ottoman Taverna, Chef Amhet Aydogmus executes the foods he grew up in his homeland of Turkey. Chef Amhet worked in kitchens all over Turkey including Hillside Beach Club at Holiday Village in Fethiye and Chef de Cuisine position at Cornelia Diamond Golf and Spa Hotel in Belek, Turkey. Before moving to the United States, Chef Amhet became a butcher enthusiast and pursued his passion working as the butcher chef at Akra Barut Hotel in Turkey then Rixos Bab Al Bahr in the U.A.E. before moving to the US. In August 2021, Chef Amhet was tapped by restaurateur Hakan Ilhan to lead the kitchen of Ottoman Taverna, the Michelin Bib Gourmand recipient in Mt Vernon. Chef Ahmet brings his vast experience in elevated dining to Ottoman Taverna and the lovers of kebabs & hot mezzes that we are … we needed to know more: 

We are big fans of Mediterranean cuisine. What sets Turkish food apart from the offerings of the rest of the region?
Turkish food is adapted from the techniques of the surrounding area, so it isn't majorly different from the rest of the region. When the Ottoman Empire was in control, they learned the recipes of surrounding areas and refined the dishes to their palate. One of the signature spices in Turkish cuisine is Maras Pepper, which is a flaked pepper. It has a sweet, yet bitter taste. This spice is specific to the cuisine as a whole. Our similarities with the surrounding regions are far more common than our differences. For example, Icli Kofte originates in Lebanon. However, when the Ottoman empire was there, they adapted to fit their style. In modern-day, different regions in Turkey prepare the dish differently. 

Tell us about the cuisine of different regions within Turkey, and how they are showcased at Ottoman Taverna. 

The basis of Turkish cuisine is the same throughout the country, but the execution varies. For example, the previously mentioned Icli Kofte in the Eastern Anatolia region is boiled and topped with butter. Whereas in Istanbul, it is fried and garnished with a lemon squeeze. In that same region, “çiğ köfte” is an incredibly popular food. It translates to “raw meat” and is traditionally composed of raw meat and bulgur mixed with spices. At Ottoman, ours is vegetarian, made with bulgur and tomato paste. In the Kayseri region, the soil is fertile, producing a vast portfolio of beans, grains, meats, and more. A ravioli-like dish, Manti, is popular here because it is flour-based. It can be baked, fried in oil, or boiled. At Ottoman Taverna, we boil our manti and top it with yogurt, garlic, and butter sauce. 

How far do you dig into the vast past of the Ottoman Empire and bring those traditional recipes forward at Ottoman Taverna?

Turks are very traditional, and our cuisine hasn’t changed much from the original recipes. 

The restaurant offers so many ways to get a taste of Turkish cuisine. Can you tell us more about your "Trip to Turkey" menu? And bottomless brunch? Fill us in.

Our “Trip to Turkey” menu allows guests to dine the way we would back home. Guests can start with a cold mezze or lentil soup before selecting a hot mezze. The entrée selection features traditional dishes such as “iskender kebab,” “beyti kebab,” and more. We recommend dining as a group of 4 than sharing all of the dishes to get exposure to the flavor profile of the cuisine.

Bottomless brunch includes bottomless mimosas and small plates. In Turkey, breakfast is a very important meal. We offer a traditional “Turkish Breakfast” which allows guests to select 1 egg dish and receive an assortment of jams, mezzes, and more.

Given your passion for butchery, how are you able to work those skills at Ottoman Taverna, and if so, how?

When I joined the team at Ottoman Taverna, my goal was to tweak the kebab recipes. The first on my list was the döner, which cooks on the rotisserie. Creating the döner is a labor of love. Every day it needs to be thinly sliced and layered to go on the rotisserie. Training the staff on the technique is ever-present. We offer a variety of kebab types, from minced, ground, shish and more. Each style requires a different form of butcher. Surprisingly, the quality of meat in America is actually more flavorful than that of Turkey; making the kebabs tastier.

Maintaining a Michelin Bib Gourmand is not always easy, what are some of your tricks of the trade?

We strive to be consistent and flavorful. We make a huge effort to provide guests with the same experience every time they dine with us. Each mezze is tasted before service to ensure it is the proper flavor. We are thrilled the Turkish cuisine receives the recognition it deserves.